Vejer de la Frontera day by day:

An off-the-peg mask in a Conil shop

Elaborate and ingenious costumes are central to Carnival the world over. A Spanish costume is called a 'disfraz', and while ordinary members of the public may buy their costume from a local shop or hastily improvise something at home, the chirigotas have their costumes designed and made by professionals, many of whom specialise in this demanding work.

Carnival is celebrated all over the Roman Catholic world and represents an escape from the well-regulated life of routine and the sober face we usually try to present. And though many countries have specialised in developing elaborate masks to disguise the revellers' identities, in Andalucía, it is also common to paint the face with make-up, a welcome concession to austerity and hard times.

Carnival evolved from the Roman feast of Saturnalia, which in turn grew out of the ancient Greek celebrations in honour of Dionysus, and so has a long and honourable history. The tradition spread from Italy in the early middle ages and merged with winter festivals in other regions of the Mediterranean.

The whole idea behind Saturnalia was to 'turn the world upside down'. Saturn was a farmer-god who took no account of social rank or position and during the festival, communities reverted to a 'golden age' where all were equal and there was enough for everyone.

Slaves pretended to disrespect their masters and everyone wore the 'pilleus', a hat normally reserved for the middle classes. Romans forgot their usual sobriety and wore colourful and elaborate evening clothes right through the day.

Many of these ideas have survived in the tradition of Carnival, and have developed independently in the different regions. In the province of Cadiz, Carnival is salty, outrageous and highly satirical, and costumes often reflect this tone.

Every town in the region, however small has its carnival groups. In Vejer, there are eight, and each group will have a new set of disfraces every year, according to the topic of their act. This creates a lot of work for local dressmakers, most of whom have specialist training in the techniques particular to carnival.

Even so, some of the demands made by the performers will stretch their ingenuity to the limits. Dolores Moreno, who has been making carnival attire for thirty years, admits to sore eyes and sore fingers throughout January and February every year as she struggles with slippery satin and sews on hundreds of buttons. Her skills include shoe and glove-making, virtuoso sequin-application and the ability to create a set of identical costumes in a range of sizes and shapes, as well as to visualise and create wearable costumes out a few sketches and a verbal description.

Dolores spent four years training in cutting, sewing and design before she considered herself competent to take on the twin challenge of Carnival disfraces and Feria dresses, but one group of Vejeriegas has to perform the same miracle with no training at all. Because every school child has to take part in a carnival parade, every mother, regardless of ability, must create a suitable costume according to the fabric and pattern sent home from school. Of all the challenges of Carnival, this one is surely the most demanding.

Some disfraces are complex, some are simple, but carnival isn't something you can easily avoid!

Photo by Kiko Reyes

Carnival week begins in earnest, with the competition between the different carnival groups.
For convenience, the Carnival programme is given below, separately from other entertainments.

Carnival Week March 7th-16th 2014

Friday March 7th at 19.00 - The competition for best Carnival group, Teatro San Francisco.

Saturday March 8th at 12 midday: Café San Miguel and Bar Rojo, Avenida San Miguel; a tasting of papas aliñas; carnival groups will perform.

4 p.m. Plaza Doctor Romero; children's party.

Sunday March 9th 12 midday - groups will perform on Plaza Manzanares, or in the Caseta Municial, La Noria if the weather is bad.

Wednesday 12th March, Carnival will visit the retirement home on Los Remedios.

Thursday March 13th at La Bombonera, a competition of 'popurri' (carnival style song).

Friday March 14th at 19.00 hrs, Carnival will tour the streets of Vejer, finishing in the Plaza de España.

Saturday 15th March, tasting of tortillas and shrimps in the square out side the Health Centre (Avenida de Andalucía); groups will perform

Sunday March 9th at 16.00 hrs; the Great Carnival Parade, beginning at the Sports Centre.

21.00 bhrs, the burning of the 'pito'.

Other entertainment:

Friday March 7th

Book presentation at the Teteria del Califa , Hotel Casa del Califa 20.00 hrs: Jackie Cornwall, Adrián Brenes and Kelly Lawlor will present their book 'A Summer in Flamenco'/ Un Verano de

e Flamenco'. Short film by Shaun Clarke; bilingual event.

La Bien Pagá, Calle Tamaron 3; Flamenco with Junquerita andManuel Jero: 23.00 hrs

Saturday March 8th

Al Las Delicias (La Corredera) Abraham Sevilla will entertain with music and humour:

Sunday March 9th

The Rastro, the monthly flea market will take place on Juan Relinque

between 11 and 3. The weather looks clear so there shouldn't be any problem.

For more information, see my February blog.

http://www.worldweatheronline.com/Vejer-De-La-Frontera-weather/Andalucia/ES.aspx

Carnival continues for the rest of the week, ending with the parade on Sunday. Here is some information about the different types of music you will encounter during carnival week.

Carnival 2014 in Vejer and Conil. Photos by Kiko Reyes and others.

Carnival groups

There are three main types of carnival groups:

The chirigotas: witty and satirical, they sing about contemporary issues and local and everyday topics.

The coros (choirs) tour the streets with guitars and other stringed instruments. They may perform in a comic or a serious tone but in general, their musical form is the 'Carnival Tango'.

The comparsas are more serious than the chirigotas and their tone is poetic or sharply satirical. Their musical style is more complex and they use harmonies and polyphony.

Each group selects a theme for their carnival presentation: this year, Vejer's main carnival group is using the theme 'let's go to the country', with costumes in appropriate style.

Musical Styles

The presentación introduces the group and theme.

Cuples are satirical songs with a chorus, directly related to the group and theme.

Pasodobles are serious songs without a chorus.

Tanguillos are poetic songs, usually performed with an orchestra.

Popurris put new words to popular songs.

These forms often recycle their music, but the lyrics are new every year.

Dance

Tanguillos are the traditional dance form for carnival, a folk-dance related to tangos which is now accepted in the flamenco canon.

You can't ignore it - as you turn off the roundabout and head up the hill to Vejer, there it is - the shell of the projected Hospital de La Janda, abandoned now for several years.
Vejer and the surrounding pueblos used to have their own hospitals. One of them, on Calle San Juan, was run by the Sisters of La Merced. When it closed at the beginning of the twentieth century, patients were transferred to their Convento near the Plaza de España.
By the end of the twentieth century, advances in medical science made it impractical to continue with small local hospitals. In 1999, plans were announced to build a new hospital, the High Resolution Hospital Centre (CHARA) to serve the people of Vejer, Conil, Barbate and Medina Sidonia.
Work began in 2007, and according to the Junta of Andalucía, which is responsible for hospitals and other facilities, was about 80% complete by 2010.
At this point, work stopped and the nearly-completed building was left to its own devices. Despite a barrage of complaints and petitions, the Junta has refused to respond to appeals to complete the project. The Ayuntimiento of Vejer has been outspoken in challenging the delay.As time goes by, vandals and the elements are damaging the building and it will now be expensive to complete.
The Junta claim that financial stringency has made progress impossible. Some in the Ayuntimiento suspect political motives: Vejer is currently led by the PP, while Andalucía generally is a PSOE stronghold.
At the end of February, the Mayor of Vejer decided that he could stand no more. He has issued a challenge to the Junta of Andalucía. His words are translated below.

José Ortiz, Mayor of Vejer -
in no mood to mess around..

The Mayor of Vejer, José Ortiz, has made public his ‘indignation’ at the attitude of the Junta of Andalucía regarding the paralysed state of the hospital building project.

Ortiz points out that work on the project stopped in 2010, ‘long before the change of governments in Vejer and Andalucía and so far, the Junta has based its strategy on shifting the blame for its own failures onto others’.

Ortiz argues that the Ayuntimiento has ‘completed the installation of water supplies to the hospital, despite which it was denied an opportunity to meet the new Health Secretary. A petition was sent to the Junta, which has dragged its feet in responding. In addition, a meeting of local mayors of different political persuasions requested a meeting with the Health Secretary, a request which was ignored by the Junta.

“To this collection of absurdities, we must add that we have sent the Junta a signed agreement to supply electricity, which they did not acknowledge. This agreement, which pledges a subsidy of 450.000 Euros, was referred forthe signature ofthe Junta,beingrequired tojustify the purposeof the grantby theCouncil”, the Mayor stressed, adding that the Junta’s strategy, apparently party political, represented a betrayal in view of the action the Ayuntimiento had already taken in installing a water supply. Since there was no reason not to believe that the work would also be efficiently carried out in respect of the electricity supply, it seemed that the Junta was reluctant to proceed because if the work were completed, the Junta would not be able to blame any other public administration for the failure to complete the hospital.

Ortiz added that ‘as the leading representative of Vejer, I can no longer tolerate them playing fast and loose with my town. The Junta currently hasthehospital project onthe negotiating tablewith the contractors, Pascual, for the renewalof agreements. Given their silence and since they have made no progress in the procedures which would allow work to go ahead, we have a completely abandoned hospital, the object of acts of vandalism, while the people of Vejer are obliged to travel kilometres for hospital care. I cannot remain passive any longer; I am obliged to take action in protest. I have therefore decided that if I receive no reply from the Junta by the end of March, I will initiate action to fence off and close the hospital site.”

ANDALUCIAINFORMACIONWEB.COM

http://www.diariodecadiz.es/article/provincia/1475013/la/janda/se/desespera/tras/antildeos/esperando/su/hospital.html

It's Carnival weekend and things began at midday, with the children's parade through town. There'll be lots going on - just listen for the drumbeat which tells you that the chirigotas are out and about!

Throughout March. Kelly Lawlor's exhibition of flamenco photography continues at the Tetería del Califa, Hotel la Casa del Califa, Plaza de España. Stunning art at affordable prices.

Friday March 14th

At 19.00 hrs, Carnival will tour the streets of Vejer, finishing in the Plaza de España.

23.00 hrs: A truly international flamenco show at La Bien Pagá bar: (Marqués de Tamaron 3) with Japanese cantaora Yuka Imaeda, Iranian guitarist Kambiz Pakandam and Brazilian bailaora Tatiana Coelho de Campos.

A new bar, 'El Club' opens on Calle Santiago 14, offering a variety of entertainments:

22.00 hrs: the disco-pub 'Aloha' (opposite the Los Remedios park)will host a programme of Carnival acts. There will be a prize for the best costume.

Saturday March 15th

Carnival night!Dress up and find a local bar to celebrate Cadiz-style!

Carnival: tasting of tortillas and shrimps in the square outside the Health Centre (Avenida de Andalucía); carnival groups will perform.

From 1.30 p.m. in the Bar Trafalgar (Calle Trafalgar) the junior group .LO QUE TODOS NOS COMEMOS, and this year's First Prize winner OJÚ QUE GALVANAZO will perform. Food is available.

The Bar Trafalgar

23.00 hrs: The traditional display of carnival costumes will take place at La Hoya (Calle Santisimo, near El Ratito bar).

Evening: at La Bodeguita, (Marqués de Tamarón 1) Chirigota group OJÚ QUE GALVANAZO and Cuarteto Los Lantisqueros will perform.

Sunday March 16th

At 12.00 midday, six carnival groups will perform at the Arco de la Segur.

At 16.00 hrs; the Great Carnival Parade, beginning at the Sports Centre.

21.00 hrs, La Plazuela: the 'quema de pito' burning of the kazoo, the symbolic act which marks the end of Carnival..

The patio is decorated with a collection of 1950s posters

If you've ever admired either of these places' décor, or wondered what was behind a certain impressive black door in the heart of Vejer's historical centre, you'll enjoy these pictures, which were published in the latest edition of Mi Casa magazine (http://nuevo-estilo.micasarevista.com/casas-lujo/casa-interiorista-gaspar-sobrino). They show the interior of the designer's highly individual Vejer house, with all the charm and invention you might expect from this designer.

When Sobrino found his Vejer house, it was in a lamentable state, without services or utilities. All the floors, windows and doors had to be replaced but the result is a remarkable and beautiful summer home.

Brilliant colours in the living room.

A typical Andalucian town house built in 1900, it is arranged on three stories, culminating in a stunning roof-garden terrace. Sobrino's first priority was to respect and preserve the original structure and design. He was also determined to introduce as much light as possible into the building, as well as to create a highly personalised interior.

The roof terrace - antique bath sometimes
used as a jacuzzi

The design matches black paintwork with white walls, individualised by reclaimed floor tiles and varied by wallpaper and the occasional coloured wall. Most of the colour, however, is provided by the contents of the house.

The designer's unique style is apparent
as soon as you enter the hall.

A guest bedroom

A pretty cloakroom

Vejer is winding down after carnival last week and not much is happening. However, it's a fair bet that the Chirigotas haven't finished yet! They'll be around Calle Juan Relinque at 13.00 hours this afternoon, and will no doubt pop up in other locations during the evening.

Meanwhile, 'El Club' (Calle Santisimo 14) will have a DJ Saturday night with musical entertainment.

There's a showing of Martin Scorsese's 'The Wolf of Wall Street' starring Leonardo de Capprio in the Teatro San Francisco at 21.00 on Saturday 22nd or 16.00 on Sunday. Spanish language.

Sunday March 23rd:

from 18.00 El Poniente (Calle Militares, 100 mtrs from Supersol) presents an evening of music and entertainment with local flamenco performers and carnival groups, There will be a set menu at 15 euros.

Friday March 28th

21.00 Teatro San Francisco: Tragi-comedy 'Una cena con secreto'. Tickets at the door from 20.00.

23.00 La Bombonera (turn right at Supersol, Carretera de los Militares)will hold a flamenco night with Diego de Gloria.
23.30 El Club (Santisimo 14); Magic sex party with DJ Shaman. Expect surprises with your drinks.

Saturday March 29th

22.00 El Poniente (Carretera de los Militares: turn right at Supersol and continue past 'La Bombonera') Flamenco group Alad´3 will perform with popular local cantaor El Kañejo. There will be a set dinner menu for 15 euros.
00.00 Las Delicias restaurant (La Corredera): Mariló Rico and Herve Capoen will perform Samba.

Sunday March 30th

12.30 There will be a concert of processional music at the parish church, El Divino Salvador.

Monday March 31st

The Convento San Francisco will reopen after a month's closure for renovations with an inaugural ceremony at 17.00. The hotel will be open to the public during the afternoon to view the alterations.

This afternoon, the Mayor of Vejer inaugurated the modifications to the Hotel San Francisco. It's a relief to see the scaffolding taken down and to recognise the freshly-painted but familiar hotel frontage. At last we can use the Cafeteria again to meet our friends when the cold winds blow.

The restaurant and cafeteria have been closed for several weeks while major changes were made to the restaurant, El Refectorio. Formerly located on the first floor, the restaurant has now been resited on the ground floor, where it is more accessible. It occupies the former reception area together with the function room. The hotel reception has been carved out of the cafeteria area, reducing its size a little.

With Vejer's Roman mosaic presiding on the back wall, the new restaurant is both inviting and spacious. The former restaurant area on the first floor will now be used as a conference and meeting room, and a bright new kitchen has been installed on the ground floor.

The Convento San Francisco has been a feature in Vejer since the sixteenth century, when a smaller building was constructed to house a community of Franciscan monks. An earlier experiment in sharing premises with the Conceptionista nuns had proved unsuccessful.

When the Franciscan monastery was first established, its situation would have seemed almost rural, as it was sited well outside the walled enclosure. By the eighteenth century, the convent was the centre of a large and thriving community, which stretched up the hill (Calle Cerro) towards the vineyards at the top, and a new building, the present Convento San Francisco, was erected.

In its heyday, the Convento community would have been almost self-sufficient, producing its own vegetables, honey and medicines, as well as clothes and shoes. It would also have employed a large staff of non-monastic workers. The Convento's cloisters were situated on Calle San Francisco, where the Teatro San Francisco and the Mercado de Abastos now stand.

Between 1835 and 1837, the Desamorticisation laws removed property from the church and aristocracy, and as a result, the Convento passed into use by the Town Council. For a while it was used as a prison and during this era, one of the most alarming events in its history occurred.

During the mid-19th century, there was fierce opposition between 'moderate' and 'progressive' liberal parties, who knew no scruple in taking political advantage. It became routine for a politician voted out of office to be clapped into jail for corruption as soon as he stepped down. In 1842, the 'moderate' ex-mayor Ildefonso Fernández Arjona suffered this fate. A few days after he was detained, a fire broke out following an arson attack.

The fire burned for 5 days, and though Don Ildefonso escaped unharmed, the arsonists were never caught. In default of any more concrete theory, blame was put squarely on the shoulders of the 'progressives', though it is just as likely that the 'moderates' did it to implicate the other side.

Severely damaged, the unused Convento mouldered for many years, but at the end of the 19th century, the Enciso brothers bought the building and rebuilt it as a shopping centre. They added two new stories above the monastery church, which is now the cafeteria area, and these are now in use as hotel accommodation.

In 1998, the building was repurchased by the Ayuntimiento and converted into a hotel. It is now administered by TUGASA, the Cadiz tourist organisation.

The date of the opening of the new restaurant has not yet been announced, but it will take place very shortly. Meanwhile, the restaurant staff have remained in employment. They have been working on hotel maintenance tasks, but are now looking forward to starting work in their new environment.

The new 'Chokolata' tea shop

I've been away for a while, so it was good to get back home and see what's been happening in Vejer in my absence. Most of the town's shops and restaurants are now open for the summer, with a few new additions to make things interesting.

First, I'd like to mention the new Chokolata tea-shop, which opened last week on Calle Altozano, a few steps away from Juan Relinque. Turn past the 'Calle Alta' shop and 'Chokolata' is on the left. When you climb the stairs, you'll find an elegant and inventive interior which even provides a cosy room for children to play in while their parents enjoy a quiet cuppa.

The establishment supplies a wide range of crepes, cakes and beverages as well as hot soup. Chokolata is a new enterprise from the owners of the retail shop of the same name on Juan Bueno, and has the same classy and colourful 'feel'. It should prove popular with visitors and Vejeriegos alike.

Another fascinating new shop is'Amouna' at Calle Corredera 43. The owner, Silvana Bertotti, who has moved across from Conil to share the Vejer experience, named it after a favourite hammam in Morocco, whose atmosphere she now tries to share with her customers. The shop is a treasure house of Moroccan and Andalucían textiles and artifacts, as well as some locally produced and original pieces of furniture.

Chantal Zwanenburg's new clothes shop 'Zahir'also opened last week at Calle José Castrillon 1, just under the Arco de la Villa off the Plaza de España. 'Zahir' sells designs by 'Max and Jan', Moroccan based designers with a commitment to creating beautiful and affordable clothing in gorgeous colours, most of which are 'one-size' - the perfect answer when you want something pretty to slip into after an exhausting day on the beach.

It's also lovely to see the return of some old favourites. La Brasa de Sancho, Calle Sancho IV el Bravo, with its quiet street tables and a bird's-eye view of the Plaza de España also has a peaceful indoor patio for those days when, like today, the Levante blows.

Down on the Plaza España, Garimba is now open again, with plentiful outdoor tables and a cool and colourful interior.

The popular Casa Varo, Sra. de la Oliva 9, has re-opened

with high-quality local cuisine and sheltered tables at the

foot of Vejer's ancient parish church.

The Casa del Califa tapas bar on Calle Corredera has been open for a few weeks - it's a good place to sample the Califa's famous Moroccan cuisine when you haven't booked a table.

La Piccolina Italian restaurant and coffee bar is now open on the Plaza de España.

'La Pajara' which sells custom-printed t-shirts is now open on Calle José Castrillón.

The Bar Arriate on Calle Corredera,often the first stop forday visitors to the town has now reopened.

Semana Santa (Holy Week) has been in progress since Sunday, with nightly processions beginning in different locations around Vejer.

Easter celebrations in Spain and Spanish-speaking countries are highly distinctive, most of all in Andalucía, where affected bystanders can sometimes be seen to weep as the processions pass by. The first Semana Santa processions were recorded in the 12th century

Two features dominate the Semana Santa parades; the ‘tronos’ – large floats depicting members of the holy family and the ‘penitentes’ or ‘nazarenos’ in their pointed-hood robes. There may also be a marching band to urge things along, though in some towns, the procession is conducted in spectral, spooky silence.

Semana Santa procession, Vejer

Some ‘tronos’, (sometimes also known as ‘pasos’) may have considerable value, having been created by well-known artists. Although some of the large ‘tronos’ in Malaga and Seville are carried through the streets by up to 250 ‘costaleros’, counting the feet, I’d guess that Vejer’s 3 ‘tronos’ each require about fifty men to carry them.

This requires a significant investment of manpower, and in the past, costaleros were recruited from dock workers and other muscular types. Nowadays, they are drawn from the many different religious brotherhoods yet the supply of volunteers does not seem to dry up.

The ‘penitentes’ are also members of religious brotherhoods, and their other name, ‘nazarenos’ derives from the robes they wear, which were developed to allow medieval penitents freedom from recognition. The different colours of the robes reflect the colours of each individual brotherhood. Many walk barefoot, sometimes dragging crosses or chains. Participation in the processions is a matter of family tradition - actor Antonio Banderas returns to Malaga almost every year to take part in the ‘penitentes’ parade, the only time in the year when he can walk the streets of his home town unmolested.

Semana Santa, Lorca

Although the most dramatic processions take place in Andalucía, Spain’s most unique Semana Santa celebrations probably take place in Lorca in Murcia. Casting aside all pretence of brotherly reconciliation, their processions take the form of a fierce contest between two of its fraternities, the Royal and Illustrious Confraternity of Our Lady of the Rosary, the ‘White’ group and the Brotherhood of Farmers of Lorca, the ‘Blue’ group.

Disdaining the vulgar preference for Christian images on this occasion, the Lorca celebrations feature large scale depictions of scenes from the Roman Empire, using horses, chariots and enormous floats. The event is so spectacular that it has been nominated as part of the Intangible Heritage of Mankind.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8u1lw_e4V7c

Easter is also marked by Passion plays, often involving the whole community, though Vejer does not have one of its own. One of the most famous takes place in Riogordo, Malaga, on Easter Saturday and Sunday, but there are smaller events in the province of Cadiz.

The Passion Play of Riogordo

Naturally, Semana Santa is celebrated in Latin America, which has evolved some

Maximón

fascinating traditions of its own, sometimes influenced by pre-Christian religions. One of the most interesting examples is Maximón, from Guatemala, a puppet who eats, smokes, drinks and likes to wear silk scarves. He is given great respect during Semana Santa.

Another, most beautiful feature of the Guatemalan Holy Week is the ‘alfombras’, ornate carpets of dyed sand or sawdust which are laid down in front of the great processional floats. They take hours to create, yet are destroyed in just a few minutes.

Guatemalan 'alfombra'

Vejer’s Holy Week celebrations will continue until the weekend, the main procession leaving the Parish Church around 22.00 hrs on Thursday.

On Easter Sunday, the theme of sacrifice will be further emphasised with a bull-running along Juan Relinque, with accompanying music and other entertainment. The following party will continue in La Hoya until 6 am.

In the last week, Vejer has processed, partied and finally dashed out of the way of two hefty bulls who didn’t enjoy the wet weather any more than we did. With Semana Santa over, there’s just long enough to get your breath back before it’s time for Feria in about two weeks.

Meanwhile, with the celebrations over, Vejer is preening its feathers ready for the summer. Last week I wrote about the new shops and restaurants opening up for the season, but it was purely by chance last week that I discovered El Antiguo Correo , a gorgeous shop on Juan Bueno which sells beautiful things from all around the world.

El Antiguo Correo is so new that the sign hasn’t even gone up over the door but already it’s attracted a lot of interest from visitors and vejeriegos alike. The owners, Pablo and Diana, both Latin American imports themselves, with their daughter Zoe give a warm reception to everyone who comes through the door and are always ready to talk about their new venture with customers and friends.

El Antiguo Correo sells rugs from Morocco, shawls from Turkey, jewellery from Peru and many other delights from the faraway corners of the world, as well as a range of books and other items of local interest.

It also stocks a range of colourful and well-designed picture books for children, in various languages, something which Vejer has lacked until now. The shop is an elegant Aladdin’s Cave, in which every item has a unique fascination and its own story to tell. I expect to visit there many times, and I know many others will do the same.

I love taking photographs and many of these end up on my blog, but when my friend, Vejer photographer Kelly Lawlor, gave me some of her photographs of last year’s feria, I was reminded of my amateur status. She has captured the atmosphere of the occasion with some beautiful and original shots which you can see on this page.

In the form we know it today, feria began in Seville in 1847 as a larger and more formal version of the cattle fairs which had previously been held every spring, and which were common to most rural areas. The Seville feria is the most famous in Spain, with millions of visitors every year from all over the globe. There will be over a thousand ‘casetas’ – private tents used to entertain family and guests - and daily carriage parades.

Vejer’s Feria begins this week and forms one of the most important social events of the year. Vejer is almost unique in having two ferias, one in the summer and one in August, and the August feria is said to be the longest in all Spain. Clearly, the town is high up in the celebration stakes - we take enjoyment seriously here!

Feria also exists in southern France, though its traditions there are a little different. Though the original purpose of feria was to show horses and cattle, the event rapidly developed into something more elaborate and took on a similar identity to the state fairs and county shows you will see in the USA and the UK.

Naturally, though, the atmosphere here is particularly Spanish, with bullfights, a special dance – sevillanas – and the ‘faralaes’; the long, frilled dress which is worn by hardcore feria celebrators. Men and boys wear the 'traje corto', a suit with a short jacket and sometimes a wide hat. Every day this week, I will add a blog about these different aspects of feria.

During feria, the town grinds to a halt and many shops and restaurants close. Vejer’s feria will include all the traditional ingredients, though the casetas, run by local businesses, are all open to the public. There will be fairground attractions and flamenco and folk-dancing as well as a cattle show and displays of horsemanship. Dancing and partying will continue until dawn and the whole town will let its hair down.

I once asked my friend, the flamenco dancer Adrián Brenes, what people actually DO at feria. He took the question quite seriously.

‘If you are older,’ he explained, ‘you meet your friends, have a drink and a chat, look at the events, the dance for example, and enjoy the atmosphere, the dresses and the fact that winter is over at last. If you’re young, you do the same thing but it’s more like a party and we stay out till dawn.
'Most people have a personal interest in feria – maybe some of their family are dancing or taking part in events. And it’s here that you run into people you haven’t seen for ages, make new friends and hear all the gossip.’

Adrián has a particular interest in feria himself. He has danced there since he was a child, and though he now lives and works in Madrid, he will return to Vejer on Sunday to perform as an invited artist.

Since that conversation, I’ve been to many ferias in different parts of the region and I have found them welcoming and enjoyable events. Vejer’s feria begins on April 30th and continues until Sunday May 4^th. You can download a copy of the schedule here:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=694844830579925&set=pcb.694844887246586&type=1&theatre

One of the most distinctive aspects of feria is the dress worn by women and girls to show that this is a special time and to create a party atmosphere. The dresses are called ‘faralaes’, and they were first worn in Seville at the beginning of the twentieth century. Since then, they have not only been adopted as standard feria wear, but have been taken up by female flamenco dancers as their traditional costume.

Faralaes are usually ankle-length, though shorter ones can be seen and are often worn by children. They often have elbow or bracelet-length sleeves, finished with ruffles or frills and the neckline is usually V-shaped. They are fitted to below the hips and then explode into a froth of ‘volantes’ – frills.

Feria dresses exist in an endless variety of colours and patterns, though the emphasis is generally on creating a bright and celebratory effect. It is usual to find two different patterns in the same dress, hopefully of a harmonious nature. Dresses in one colour are also popular, and these are very elegant. However. even taking cultural differences into account, it is not impossible for feria dresses to overstep the boundaries of good taste.

Along with the dress goes a particular style. The hair is pulled back into a bun and fastened with coloured slides while extravagant earrings balance the exuberance of the dress. An artificial rose stands upright on the wearer’s head, a feat which only Andalucían women can perform and which is not attempted at any other time of year. You will rarely see a feria dress teamed with flat shoes.

Feria dresses are expensive and some women save all year to buy something beautiful for themselves and their daughters. It can be stated with absolute authority that no female is ever too young or too old to wear a 'traje de feria'.

The cost of a feria dress depends on the number of frills, as they represent the most time-consuming aspect of making the dress.

Vejer’s main faralaes outlet is ‘La Boutique de Antonio’ on the corner of San Ambrosio and Torrero Juan Conde. Here you will find dresses in all sizes, ranging in price from a little over 100 Euros for a bargain-basement dress to around 400 Euros for the most expensive examples. At the moment, the shop does not have a signboard, but it is very easy to find should you wish to make a purchase.

It is usually cheaper to have a dress made using your own choice of fabric. I was lucky enough to persuade a local dressmaker to share some of her secrets with me. This year, she has made about 12 dresses, some for a dance school. While a full-sized dress takes at least 20 hours to make, she told me, the children’s’ versions are a bit quicker, though not much.

An adult's dress might cost 120 Euros, depending on the number of frills, but members of her large family usually expect a 50% discount, which reduces her income. Children’s’ dresses cost about 40 Euros. Feria and Carnival are her busy times, and nobody gives her much advance notice, so she often works around the clock. For a fully qualified craftswoman (she studied for four years at college to acquire her skills), the rewards are not very large.

Despite their distinctive appearance, she tells me, feria dresses are made in the same way as other dresses and there are no special techniques. After measuring the client, she adapts her pattern to their size and generally achieves a pleasing result with only one more fitting.

There is no restriction on the kind of fabric used for a feria outfit, though nowadays, a lot of people like stretch fabric because it holds its shape and gives a little room to move. Cotton and glazed cotton are popular, and silk is sometimes used though it is expensive, but mixed and synthetic fabrics are now predominant.

Not every dress you encounter at feria will be the typical faralaes. My dressmaker friend also showed me a dress she was making especially for the Garrotín. This flamenco palo is based in Asturian folklore and is one of the very few palos to have developed outside Andalucía. Its rhythm is similar to the flamenco tango and it is usually danced in a wide-skirted dress with fewer frills than the traditional flamenco dress.

Feria is over and it’s time for Vejer to get back to normal. Shops and restaurants have reopened and the countdown to summer has started in earnest.

Before the memories fade, it’s a good time to remember that typical event of feria, the sevillanas dance which can be seen in every caseta from the Horse Club to the Partida Popular. Sevillanas are danced in Andalucía whenever there is something to celebrate, be it a wedding, a birthday or just a party and many people have some expertise. You don’t have to be a skilled flamenco dancer to dance sevillanas because it is not a flamenco dance but an old folk-dance which was influenced by flamenco after that style emerged in the late eighteenth century.

Despite its name, sevillanas did not originate in Seville, though they are now identified with that region. They came from the Castille region and evolved from an older dance form called seguidillas.

Sevillanas is a couple dance, but there is no pressure to team up with a partner of the opposite sex and it is now more usual to see women dancing together. Nevertheless, the dance describes the process of courtship. There is very little touching between partners because when the dance evolved, courting couples had to dance it under the watchful eyes of parents and grandparents who were constantly on the lookout for any impropriety, but despite this, the dance has an erotic quality, especially when performed by seasoned professionals.

Sevillanas follow a strict choreography. The dance is divided into four sections –each one a separate ‘sevillana’. Each sevillanas consists of three parts, or ‘coplas’ which combine a variety of steps. The most important steps are the basic ‘sevillana’ step, the ‘pasada’ where the two dancers cross each other to reverse positions and the ‘cierre’ which closes each sevillana. It takes about four minutes to dance the full set.

The sevillanas we see here in Vejer is just one of several different forms you can see in various parts of Andalucía, which include Romeros de la Puebla and Corraleros de Lebrija. These different forms share the unmistakable ¾ rhythm and the characteristic tone of celebratory gaiety, as well as a number of similar steps.

I once tried to learn sevillanas with the help of my friend Adrián Brenes, the professional flamenco dancer. Adrián has a cupboard at home bursting with awards he has won for dancing sevillanas. When he dances with his friend Cristina Zájara, the couple seem to float above the ground, inspired by angels.

Despite his skill as a dancer and a teacher, he didn’t make much progress with me. I was always in the wrong place at the wrong time and I couldn’t help wondering why my feet had been placed so far away from my brain. Combining the feet and arm movements was difficult and in the end I gave up in despair.

Since then, I’ve looked carefully at the way sevillanas are danced by everyday mortals, and it’s clear that they often don’t follow the prescribed sequence of steps. Keeping to the rhythm and remembering the pasadas and arm movements appear to be the priority and what the feet are doing is often concealed by the generous skirts of the ‘traje flamenca’. Many men particularly, are skilled at combining the maximum effect with the minimum effort.

Dancing sevillanas is something we can all do in our own way, but even if you don’t want to take part, this colourful dance is an essential part of feria.

You can see part of Carlos Saura’s film ‘Sevillanas’ here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7fGt1NCAvY&list=PL8EF079C5DD2BA83D

Kelly Lawlor with daughter Kitty

Before we consign 2014's feria to the realms of history, I want to share some of Kelly

Sol Sanchez de Muniain and Chelsea Anton

Lawlor’s excellent photographs from this year’s celebrations. Kelly and I have co-operated on several projects in the past, including the photography for my production of A Midsummer Night’s Dream and A Summer in Flamenco, the book which I wrote with the dancer Adrian Brenes. Kelly’s photographs were a major part of the book and have been much admired since it was published last year.

Kelly was born in Epping, Essex and began her career in banking. Despite her success in this field, she yearned for something more creative and after spending time travelling and trying out different professions, when she received her first photographic commission, a portrait, in 1990, she knew she had found her niche. Living in London, she worked on a wide range of photographic projects during the 1990s, specializing in portraits, actors’ head shots and portfolios.

Kelly’s first child, Rex, was born in 2000 and photography took a back seat for a while. Rex was soon followed by Gus and Kitty, and somewhere in between, Kelly also managed to study Silversmithing and Jewellery at London Metropolitan University. In 2008, she and her family moved to Vejer, where she now lives in an old patio house with beautiful views towards Medina Sidonia. She has returned to her interest in photography and regularly delights her friends with gorgeous pictures of interiors, events and weddings, as well as stunning portraits.

Sol Sanchez de Muniain

Kelly has a keen eye and an inventive imagination, as well as a mastery of technique. This year, she was particularly intrigued by the gender isues apparent at feria.

'It's fescinating to see how the girls dress up as boys for the sevillanas and equestrian events,' she told me. Her pictures are lively and original, often inspired by a feminine viewpoint on the world. It's a privilege to be able to share her pictures of Vejer’s feria 2014.

Thanks to Sol, Chelsea Anton, Maria Vera, Adrian Brenes and all those whose pictures appear in this blog. Kelly Lawlor can be contacted at kellyklawlor@gmail.com.

Sol Sanchez de Muniain

Chelsea Anton and Sol Sanchez de Muniain

Nicola Renshaw

Maria Vera

Adrian Brenes

Maria Vera

The Buenavista mills in their spring garden

Implements in use during the recent past, now in the San José windmill

The traditional economics of La Janda depended on fishing and agriculture. Land was held in large estates called ‘Latifundias’, a legacy from the Reconquista, when generous allocations were made to incomers from the north in order to repopulate the area with Spanish-speaking leaders and managers. In the 13^th and 14^th centuries, this usually meant members of the minor aristocracy, who had been educated to rule but did not hold much land in their own areas. The offer of significant holdings was a strong incentive to migrate, just as it was in the USA in the 19th century.

Agricultural workers led an unstable existence, with starvation wages and no guarantee of regular employment, while fisher-folk were constantly threatened by the Atlantic gales and the ever-present Barbary corsairs. Most of the production in the area was managed by the powerful Dukes of Medina Sidonia, the historical equivalents of today’s corporate magnates, who drew profits accordingly.

Smaller enterprises also derived from agriculture. Vejer, as the most important town in the Comarca, housed the normal range of cobblers, merchants, mule-drivers, brothel-keepers, builders and every other trade necessary to the existence of a thriving town. Some of these are reflected in the street names – ‘Laneria’, ‘Tripería’, ‘Arrieros’, ‘Vino’.

Vejer was famous for its beehives, and often described as ‘Vejer of the honey.’ It is sometimes claimed that the cultivation of bees began in the area, during the Tartessian era, 3000 – 500 years BC. Olive oil was produced in several local mils but as time went on, most of the milling in the area was devoted to grinding wheat into flour.

Until the 19^th century, flour was produced at

the water mills in Santa Lucía, but when the aristocracy lost their privileges in the mid-century, they were obliged to make other arrangements. The first windmills were constructed at Buenavista. They were not a success and were replaced by sturdier versions a few years later. One of these, San José is now open to the public. More mills were constructed to the west, and two of these now house the Poniente and Los Macininos restaurants.

A little while ago, I caught up with Juanino, who looks after both the mills and the mules which stand a little way off, ready to give rides to the public. He showed me the old photographs of the mills in their original glory, with their four triangular sails.

Juanino

The roofs of the mills were turned to meet the current wind using a stout beam, which slotted into a housing on the roof provided for the purpose. The roof was turned frequently and fortunately the operation was fairly straightforward. I was fascinated by Juanino’s description of the five winds which blew through Vejer, and their different characters.

There is always a wind in Vejer. Most of us are aware of the two main ones, the Levante and the Poniente. They are named after the rising and setting of the sun and therefore it is easy to deduce that they come from the East and West respectively.

The Poniente is a consistent wind which doesn’t cause much trouble, but the Levante, gusty and hot, drives strong men to despair and causes general dismay. ‘I feel it in my body,’ a Vejeriego friend once told me, and the Levante is blamed for most of the mishaps which occur in the town while it is blowing. It blows back through the sewers and creates an unpleasant smell in bathrooms, prevents kite-surfing and is condemned as an absolute nuisance. It is often followed by clouds and rain, and is particularly unpleasant in Vejer, owing to the town's high position.

Intriguingly, Juanino was also able to describe three more distinct winds which would have been old friends to the millers of the recent past. The Norte, the north wind, is a cold, dry wind while its cousin, the Rondeño, blows from the direction of Ronda in Malaga, the North East. The Bendabal arrives from the sea via Tarifa, a noisy wind which stirs up the sea and creates waves for surfers.

Earthenware 'lebrijas' for washing clothes

The Poniente is the hero-wind of millers, warm and hospitable, turning the sails evenly and making everyone’s life easier. Fortunately, it blows on more days of the year than any of the others.

The windmill ’San José’ is open to the public from 10 to 2 and 5-8 every day except Sunday and includes a range of furniture and implements as well as photographs from the past. While you are there, you might also try a ride on one of Juanino’s Andalucian mules. Taller than the traditional donkey, these mules are not hybrids, but were bred in the area to produce an animal with strength and endurance to carry out the many necessary tasks of haulage and transportation which were required from them in times gone by.

Along with flour, the mills produced great quantities of straw, and this was traditionally worked into baskets and other containers. A large variety of examples of this work are available at Juani's shop on Calle Trafalgar.

My friend, photographer Kelly Lawlor, was invited to judge this year’s Open Patio competition in Vejer, a processwhich involved taking a lot of photos. I was delighted to accompany her and her fellow judge Sol Sánchez de Muniain on their inspection of some of Vejer’s prettiest outdoor spaces. You can see Kelly’s marvellous photos on this page.

Although in Britain, we describe a paved outdoor space adjoining a house as a patio, the Andalucían patio is quite different. It is an outdoor room within the walls of a house, and traditionally, it was left open to the sky.

Although the Romans are often credited with inventing the patio, its origins go further back, to Iran and the Arabian Peninsula. Patios were originally used for keeping cattle safe from thieves, and this type of indoor enclosure can still be seen in parts of Turkey and Syria, as well as Afghanistan.

As time went by, however, the patio became an outdoor utility area and later blossomed into a space for leisure and recreation. The large and beautiful patios of the Alhambra at Granada are the most perfect of examples of this type, which, until comparatively recently, was only found in the houses of the wealthy.

These patios linked indoors and outdoors by a series of elegant archways, giving a protectedwalkway. Stairs to the first floor were usually outdoors. In general, living accommodation was provided on the first floor with storage and utility areas beneath.

Even a decorative patio, however, has an important function. Scholars of environmental architecture have described how perfectly the patio works to control temperatures in hot and arid countries. The patio, ventilated by small openings at ground floor level, allows the accumulated heat of the house to rise, acting as a kind of chimney in reverse.

The flowers, shrubs and fountains which are often found in patios also have a job to do. They cool the air and provide a pleasant shade in which to rest or work. A traditional patio house is many times more economical to run than an air-conditioned tower block, and uses fewer environmental resources.

Here in Vejer, we have three different types of patio. The first type, at the centre of a house, conforms to the description above. The Casa del Mayorazgo, the Palacio Castrillón and The Casa de las Viudas are good examples, though Vejer has many others. Although they are now in multiple occupation, these were once great houses, owned by wealthy families. The Casa del Mayorazgo is typical of the larger houses in having two patios, one for utilities and one for relaxation.

The second type of patio, mainly found in the Province of Cadiz, is the ‘Patio de Vecinos’, the shared patios in which many of us have our homes. In generally, they are a nineteenth century invention, though my friend Virginia Almazo tells me that this system of space-sharing was first used in North Africa.

Unlike the elegant and symmetrical house patios, these come in all shapes and sizes and exist for a variety of reasons. One of the most common is the conversion of larger houses into smaller units, and especially, as the need to keep animals on the patio diminished, the conversion of stables and outhouses into living accommodation. Some, however, were purpose-built with the intention of squeezing the maximum accommodation into an unpromising space. Very few are symmetrical and some seem downright zany – nevertheless, behind the white walls and barred windows, some beautiful houses and apartments have been created.

The third type is the 'patio moderno', which takes the form of a small paved or planted garden outside a house, and these are usually fond in the new housing developments at Buenavista, San Miguel and La Noria.

Vejer’s patios were traditionally occupied by labourers and other low-paid families, many ofwhom also owned a country house, only visiting the town for special occasions. Nineteenth- century life on a communal patio must have been demanding. Rooms were small, and most families enjoyed no more than two. Cooking and washing were done out of doors all year round, using huge, leaded pots which can’t have done much for the family’s health.

The patio was the preserve of the women and children, as well as dogs, cats and donkeys – men stayed out of the way, either working or gathering in bars and clubs. Until recently, a‘retrete’ in the corner provided toilet facilities and baths were often enjoyed outside too, probably using water drawn from the ‘aljibe’ or underground water cistern which provided all but drinking water.

Social relationships were sometimes strained, especially when someone took it upon themselves to reprove another woman’s child. The staircases were clogged up with courting couples and when our Andalucían rain came down, people had to manage as best they could. Nevertheless, it was commonly said that ‘the wealth of the house is in the patio’.

As the twentieth century advanced, the number of dwellings in each patio declined, apartments became bigger and bathrooms and kitchens came indoors. It was time to exploit the restorative potential of the patios and residents began to create the beautiful and floral spaces which had previously existed only in the houses of the wealthy. The first Open Patio competition was held in 1992 and has grown more popular every year.

I asked Kelly how she found her first experience of patio judging.

‘Well,’ she said, ‘you see a lot of geraniums…’ She told me that she had been impressed by the variety of the different patios and by the ability of Vejer vecinos to create small paradises out of almost nothing.

‘It was the everyday items that touched me,’ she said, ‘the birds, the brooms, the neatly stored bicycles. It’s a triumph of the human spirit.’

Vejer's patios will be open to the public for the rest of this week. The results of the patio competition will be announced at the Teatro San Franciso on Saturday May 31st at 8 p.m.

If you would like to read more about Vejer’s patios, I recommend ‘Los Patios de Vecinos de Vejer de la Frontera’ by Jesús Melero Callado Manuel, available at the library in Vejer.

Some of the competitors from the 2013 flamenco cante competition

Rocio Molina, one of last year's finalists

Vejer’s annual flamenco singing competition begins at ten o’clock tonight at the peña flamenca Aguilar de Vejer on Calle Rosario. The first round will continue continue for the next two months, and the final will be held in August.

I can still remember the first time I attended the concurso, cautiously following the map from the tourist office and hoping I didn’t take a wrong turning. The peña flamenca is housed in an old baroque church and despite a large capacity, all the seats were taken an hour before the competition began. Nowadays, I ariive an bit early and enjoy a glass of Rioja while Gustavo, who runs the peña flamenca, makes his final preparations.

It's an international competition - this entrant was French.

‘Cante’ or song, is the basis of all flamenco. Its origins are undocumented, but we know that it evolved as a fusion between the different musical elements of gypsy culture and Andalucian folk-culture. Indian, Jewish and North African styles all played a part in forming the flamenco genre, which seems to have emerged in the melting-pot of post-Reconquista Spain, when previously disparate ethnicities and cultures were thrown together in the resulting social upheaval.

Guitarist Victor Rosa, a competition favourite

There is no certainty about how the name ‘flamenco’ came to be attached to this unique art form, but we do know that in the 18^th and 19^th centuries, it was considered impolite to use the word ‘gitano’ -gypsy- and ‘flamenco’ was often used instead, referring to the arrival of some travelling people from Belgium. In his wonderful book ‘South of Granada’, Gerald Brenan tells us that ‘Flamenco’ was the vulgar name for what was properly called ‘cante jondo’ or ‘deep song’. We now use this term to describe the most serious flamenco styles and it seems possible that the word 'flamenco' was first used in early publicity to dignify the gypsy art.

An attentive audience

Flamenco song and dance consist of between 50 and 100 ‘palos’ or different styles. These are quite varied, ranging from the deep and tragic Seguiriyas to the festive and celebratory Bulerias, and they have distinctive rhythms, styles and sometimes tunes. Rhythm is probably the most important element in distinguishing palos, though it is not always easy to identify.Each competitor in the competition will sing 3 songs, each in a different style, choosing from a list supplied by the flamenco club.

The palos, many of which tend to be associated with different regions, can quite difficult to distinguish at first, but the most important ones soon become familiar. The Alegrias, one of the native palos of Cadiz, is easy to recognise by its cheerful tone and its ‘tirititran’ refrain.

You will hear the singer tell you the name of the palo before he or she begins to sing, the most favoured being the more demanding styles such as Seguiriyas, Soleares or Fandangos, which help the singer showcase his or her skills.

The lyrics – letras – of the different palos are varied and though they are not all about disappointed love as some people believe, romance probably provides the most heart-wrenching themes. However, there are many religious, narrative or comic songs, as well as proverbial ones, and some of these go back to Roman times, reflecting an oral literary tradition which has been circulating in Europe for millennia.

Another young finalist

Flamenco song is traditionally accompanied by guitar, and though other instruments are often used as well, the guitar is the only instrument allowed in the competition. Some guitarists are competition regulars, while others accompany only one singer. The guitarists are an essential element in the event, since they must be capable of supporting and enhancing the competitor's performance.

Try the cante competition, even if only for a while and don’t be too concerned if you don’t understand many of the lyrics. All flamenco lyrics use the Andaluza dialect spoken here, and some are very old, so that the singer herself doesn’t always perfectly understand what she is singing and has to make an imaginative guess.

Gustavo Benitez Mera, who organises the competition.

The cante competition is an essential item in Vejer’s cultural diary and something everyone should experience at least once.

For more information on flamenco in the area, ‘A Summer in Flamenco’ is available on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=Jackie%20Cornwall%20A%20Summer%20in%20Flamenco

Since last year, publicist Sergio Lucas has been conducting an inquiry entitled 'Which is the prettiest town in Spain?' Online voters are asked to vote for their favourite town and Vejer is currently at number 6.

http://m.listas.20minutos.es/lista/cual-es-el-pueblo-mas-bonito-de-espana-365773/. If you like Vejer, I hope you will vote.

Spain is crammed with beautiful towns, each with its own special charm lent to it by nature or the work of man. I love Montefrio in the Province of Granada, where the church is built on a hill-within-a hill, and you can look down on the spire as you drive into town. Baeza and Úbeda in the Provence of Jaen contain so many Renaissance buildings that they have been declared a World Heritage site and both Arcos de la Frontera and Ronda nearby are set in astonishing natural surroundings. I could name many others.

Nevertheless, nobody will be surprised to learn that in my view, Vejer de la Frontera is the most beautiful town in Spain. Its beautiful buildings, stunning views to all points of the compass and the charming intimacy of its winding streets give it an enchantment I haven’t found elsewhere.

Part of Vejer’s charm is intangible and comes from the warmth of its residents. Some of it derives from the care and imagination so many Vejeriegos give to their homes and businesses and the tireless maintainance of patios, window boxes and terraces which goes on all through the year. The Ayuntimiento also plays a part, encouraging residents to preserve the town’s characteristic whiteness and maintaining public buildings.

It might therefore surprise some people to know that until the 1970s, parts of the town presented a fairly dismal prospect. Many houses were empty and derelict, the walls and towers were in disrepair and some of the whites were decidedly grey. It took the imagination and dedication of one man to begin the process of reclaiming our heritage, and that man was Antonio Morillo, the crusading Mayor of Vejer.

Some of the whites were decidedly grey.

Antonio Morillo was Mayor for seventeen years between the 1970s and 1990s and while in he was office,

The young Antonio Morillo

Vejer was transformed. His mission was to reclaim the architectural heritage of the town and to present it to the world as a homogenous example of a traditional Andalucían walled pueblo.

During this time, the walls, towers and public buildings were restored, concrete paving was replaced with cobbles and some of Vejer’s most attractive features emerged. The area around the Arco de la Segur, which contained a row of houses, was cleared, and the present mirador was set into the wall.

Not everyone was happy about this, as they were rehoused at Buena Vista in the new part of town, away from their familiar surroundings. Nevertheless, the new mirador has given pleasure to many people and has provided invaluable public space.

Since these improvements were carried out, Vejer has proved attractive to several generations of tourists,

Morillo the author

and hotels, restaurants and hostels have sprung up meet their needs. Very few people who visit nowadays fail to be impressed. Once nominated the ‘Second prettiest town in Spain’, in 2013, Vejer was formally accepted into the network ‘The prettiest villages in Spain.’
http://www.lospueblosmasbonitosdeespana.org/en/
andalucia/vejerdelafrontera

Vejer has inspired artists, writers and photographers, and in this blog, I am grateful to Maria Muñoz for the opportunity to use some of her photographs. Whether Vejer reaches number one in the current contest or not, thanks to the efforts of many people to care for this beautiful town, it will always be the most beautiful to its many admirers and friends.

Carnival costume - the disfraces.

Carnival week begins! What's on in Vejer, Weekend 7th -11th March 2014

Carnival music: Chirigota, Comparsa,

The Hospital of La Janda and the defiance of José Ortiz

What's on in Vejer - entertainment for weekend March 14 - 16

Gaspar Sobrino designed Las Delicias Restaurant and the new Mercado. Here's his Vejer house.

Events and entertainment, Vejer de la Frontera March 21st-23rd

Events and entertainment, Weekend March 28-30th

El Convento de San Francisco, past and present: the new Refectorio restaurant.

April - new places to eat, drink and shop.

The Tradition of Semana Santa in Vejer and elsewhere.

El Antiguo Correo - Aladdin's Cave on Juan Bueno

The feria of 2014: Photos by Kelly Lawlor

Faralaes - the dress for feria.

The sevillanas dance.

Kelly Lawlor, photographer - another look at feria.

The Five Winds of Vejer

Vejer's patio competition - photos by Kelly Lawlor

Flamenco song on Calle Rosario - the annual Cante competition.

Vejer de la Frontera - the prettiest town in Spain?. Photos by María Muñoz.